The alternator belt on a 1998 Dodge Neon is adjusted by loosening the retaining bolts and applying pressure to the side of the alternator with a pry bar. With the belt tight, the alternator can then be bolted down.

Under the front side of the alternator when you are facing the engine from the front. There is a bolt about 10mm. It is long and skinny. Loosen that and eventually it will give the belt the slack it needs. (WARNING : DO NOT LOOSEN ALL THE WAY, i made this mistake and unless you want to cut up your hands getting it back together, just don't)

Then you have to loosen the larger bolt on the very top that the alternator pivots off of.

Once that is done simply pull out the belt(careful to see what tracks it was in first) and slip on the new one.

now tighten the skinny bolt and then the top one and you are done~!

In order to do the Alternator Belt, you have to remove the power steering and a/c belt first. To do so, first, loosen the pivot bolt on top of power steering pump, just behing the pulley. You will need to position the pulley just right in order to fit a socket through a hold in the pulley to loosen the bolt. Then there is a bracket nut almost directly below that back behind the belt, very difficult to get to, use a thin 10-12", 14 mm wrench to loosen. Next you need to loosen the the lock nut, it is located just behind the belt too, almost directly across from the bracket nut, very close to passenger headlamp, very difficult to get to, need a 3-4" in length 14 mm wrench for best maneuvering, then loosen the adjuster bolt. The power steering pully should pivot slightly to allow removal of old belt. Then you have to crawl under the car and loosen, not remove, the pivot bolt which sits directly under the alternator. Then from above loosen the lock bolt, and loosen the adjustor bolt. Alternator should give and you will be able to remove the old belt and replace with a new belt. After you have the belt in place, reverse these steps, tighten the adjuster bolt, tighten the lock bolt, then tighten the pivot bolt. Make sure that the belt gives 1/4". You don't want it to be too tight or too loose. Then put the power steering/ac belt in place and reverse the steps of the removal. Tighten the adjuster bolt, then the lock nut, bracket nut, then the pivot bolt. Good luck. It's not fun or easy.

Zetec-E engine: (located passenge side of engine compartment, below power steering reservoir) Remove securing bolt for coolant expansion tank, lift expansion tank out of clip and move to side. Remove drive belt. Lift power steering reservoir from retaining bracket and move to one side. Unscrew securing bolt from wiring loom bracket and move to one side (disconnect multi-plug). Remove the bolt from power steering reservoir bracket to release ground cable --- Carefully bend the ground bracket down (aid in removal of alternator). Remove the two retaining bolts from the canister purge valve and move to one side. Remove the plastic cover, unscrew the nut and disconnect the wiring from the back of the alternator. Unscrew and remove the bolt nearest the engine. Unscrew the other retaining bolt until it is fully disengaged from the threads (will not be possible to remove bolt from alternator until after alternator has been removed). INSTALL: put this bolt in new alternator before lowering alternator into position. Installation is reverse of removal procedure (Don't forget to carefully bend ground bracket back to original position).

2.0L SPI engine: (located: passenge side of engine compartment, possibly below power steering pump, follow drive belt) Remove the bolts holding the power steering pipe brackets to the exhaust manifold and set the pipe to one side. Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield. Remove the drive belt. Remove the plastic cover, unscrew the nut and disconnect the wiring from the alternator. Unscrew the alternator mounting bolts and lift alternator from the engine. If this does not help see similar question/answer from four months ago.

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SIMILAR QUESTION:

My boyfriend has a 2002 Ford Focus. He is trying to replace the alternator. He has it unscrewed and everything but it just won't come out. The book he has on the car isn't any help.

So, how can he get the old one out of his car? * 4 months ago

Ford Girl answer to similar question.

On this particular car, you need to support the bottom of the engine, and remove the engine mount to enable access to it. If it has the 2.0L DOHC Zetec engine, you will need to raise to engine slightly and tilt the engine forward (toward the front of the car), in order to gain the necessary clearance for removal.

On the 2.0L SPI engine you'll need to tilt the engine rearward (toward to back of the car) to get the alternator out. The sizes of the fasteners to remove are three 15mm bolts on the body, and two 18mm nuts on the engine. MAKE SURE THE ENGINE IS SUPPORTED BEFORE YOU REMOVE THEM. Hope this helps.

I have an 2003 Focus 2.0L SPI and I did not tilt the engine rearward to get the alternator out. I removed the power steering pump and the radiator fan. This is far easier than tilting the engine... I'm not sure why anyone would suggest this. Maybe necessary for some models, but I'd unbolt stuff all day before messing with tilting the engine.

remove the bumper

3 bolts on each side connecting the fender.

a couple bumper washers wire connectors

the washer hose from the fluid bottle.

remove the front radiator "carriage" it swings to the pass side.

disconnect the AIR conditioner wire connector.

-- OR.. just loosen it and support it in its place... giving you room to work.

I supported mine with two five gallons buckets.

now... use a 10mm allen to remove the accessories belt.

then you can get to the alternator on the passenger bottom side of the FRONT of the motor.

I dont konw how it is connected from there.. two or three bolts and electrical connectors.

as always.. disconnect your battery FIRST.

have a good one.

If it's like my 96 eclipse then the alternator is on the back of the motor bottom passenger side... hard to get to but if you jack the car up about a foot you should have a decent amount of space back there... just disconnect the wires and unbolt the alternator... make sure you unbolt the one on the adjuster side first so nothing pops out so to speak

ANswer:

Depends on the motor, on the 4G63T its on the Diverside under the power steering pump. theres a tensioner bolt on the bottom and a bolt in the bracket (12MM) and a bolt on the bottom that is just a guide pin. once you loosen the bolt in the bracket and the tensioner the belt comes off then pull the pin, the electrical connector and you should be ready to install the new (please remember first step is diconnect the battery!)

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Using a 3/8" drive, release tension on the tensioner and slip the belt off of an accessory.

3. Loosen the passenger side front wheel lug nuts, then raise front of vehicle and remove wheel.

4. Reinstall two adjacent lug nuts onto the brake rotor and using a prybar on the lugnuts and a socket with a breaker bar, loosen and remove the nut from the splined half shaft(this nut supposedly looses its torque ability and needs to be replaced after being loosened).

5. Remove the Stabilizer bar link. This will require two wrenches, one placed near the rubber seal area. (This step caused me a 3-day delay as I had to order a new one when the nut broke off with the bolt intake)

6. Remove the steering knuckle pinch bolt and separate the ball joint from the "A"-shaped suspension component with the appropriate tool or prybar.

7. Remove the "Y"-shaped exhaust pipe from underneath the vehicle. Spraying a lubricant on the 6 studs and nuts will aid the removal of these nuts. (Stripping of these threads is easily done with the galling that can happen from the hot conditions it has undergone. This accounts to adding another 3 days to my repair.If possible tighten the nut 1/8 of a turn before removing to keep from pulling rust into threads)

8. Remove the half shaft after extracting it from the steering nuckle. (It may be just as easy to remove the nuckle prior to removal of the half shaft, even though this requires removing the ABS sensor, brake caliper, and rotor.) A slide hammer can assist on freeing the half shaft from the other half shaft.

9. Loosen the 5 nuts needed to remove the half shaft that goes into the transmission. Apparently this half shaft is balanced from the factory and should be reinstalled in the same allignment, so mark the transaxle and the half shaft to make this possible. Remove the half shaft.

10. There are 3 electrical connections to the alternator: a 3-pin connector that can be removed by slipping off the clip, a 1-pin connector that is removed by gently prying the plastic clip portion up, and a battery cable sized cable that attaches with a nut that can be removed with a 3/16" socket.

11. There are now 4 bolts that need to be loosened before the alternator can be removed. Three of the bolts are easily reached, while the 4th is not visible and will have to be felt for. A 13mm socket will be needed to remove these bolts. The exhaust manifold and the attached O2 sensor blocks access to the hidden bolt, and removal of the manifold has its own set of hidden bolts which makes removal of the manifold to access the alternator bolt unfeasible.

12. Installation is the reverse of the above, but it is highly recommended that you replace the O2 sensor that is now exposed. It uses a square connector, not a round one like the more accessible "catalyst monitor" sensors. This vehicle has a whopping 4 sensors distributed over 2 banks. If you choose to replace this sensor, a tip on removing the electrical connector: find a 3-inch or so 3/16" diameter or less piece of metal(I used a tap) and using one hand to feel for the access hole which will point to the rear of the vehicle, use the other hand with the metal piece to insert into the hole and releasing the clip, pull on the connector to disconect the heated oxygen sensor. Alternative method This task can also be accomplished WITHOUT removing the drive shafts.

Jack the car up as high as possible and support with jack stands.

1. Disconnect the battery.

2. Remove the passenger side wheel & inner fender well covers

3. Remove the exhaust Y-pipe. Soak the seven nuts with penetrating lubricant.

4. Remove the serpentine belt from the alternator.

5. Unbolt the upper roll bar mounting point from the strut.

6. Unbolt the steering joint & press out of the steering arm.

At this point you should be able to see the bottom portion of the alternator.

7. From under the car you should see a bracket that supports the intemediate shaft. Unbolt the two nuts that connect the intermediate shaft bearing to the bracket.

8. Unbolt the three bolts that hold the bracket to the engine. Then remove the bracket. You now have enough room to get to the alternator bolts.

9. Use a 13mm socket with a universal joint on the end of a long extension to get to the upper alternator bolt. I was able to reach around into the wheel well with my right hand up to the top of the alternator bolt to help guide the socket onto the bolt.

10. The bottom bolt is easy to get to. But the universal makes it a little easier, because the Intermediate shaft is still there.

11. The rear alternator bracket is removed with a 10mm socket.

12. Once the bolts are out you make need to pry the alternator out of the bottom of its mount.

13. Once loose, pivot the alternator on its pulley down towards the control arm. If you are having problems bringing the alternator down past the rubber boot, just rotate the brake disk and it will walk the alternator out. You will have easy access to the electrical connections.

Replace with new alternator and reverse the process.

Disconnect the battery. Unplug the alternator and take the belts off. Unbolt the alternator, and bolt the new one in. Put the belts back on it. Plug it back in and reconnect the battery. Voila! You changed your own alternator!

no, there is a high probability that it will explode

Loosen the lugs slightly on the front passenger side of the car. raise the front passenger side of the car and remove the wheel. At the back of the wheel well are two pieces of plastic shrouding. They are held by one or two plastic pins. Using a screwdriver, pry out the center of the plastic pin, it should come all the way out. Then you can pry the outer sheath of the pin out of it's hole. The plastic shrouding can now be pulled out. Don't worry, there is not much to be damaged at this point. Now, make sure your car is stable. Scissor jacks do not mean stable. I admit I did it with a scissor jack, but I would recommend a good jack and a jack stand because you are gonna spend a bit of time under the brake rotor and if the car falls, you're most likely dead. Once the shrouding is removed you should be able to look up in there and see the alternator and the tensioner pulley. If you are confused as to which is which, there should be a diagram at the front of the engine compartment in front of the radiator that shows all of the pulleys and the routing of the serpentine belt. Now you need to remove the serpentine belt. Get a 14mm box end wrench and put it over the bolt on the tensioner pulley, the small pulley without tracks that is Slightly closer to the front of the car than the alternator. Tighten this bolt. This may seem counterintuitive if you have never done this before. But trust me. Rotate the bolt clockwise. This will release tension on the serpentine belt so you can pull the belt off of the alternator. After removing the belt, find two 13mm wrenches or ratchet attachments and remove the nut and bolt that hold the bottom of the alternator. Then remove the bolt at the top of the alternator. 13 or 14mm, I can't remember. Make sure you get the right one, it is just to the left of another more visible bolt that fastens the accessory above the alternator (can't remember what it is). After that bolt is removed you should be able to get back under the car and slide the alternator out of it's holding position. Now disconnect the alternator wires. This can be kinda trick as they are difficult to reach, and the main plug has a plastic latch holding it in place. Use an 8mm on the bolt holding the other wire. Now slide the alternator out through the wheel well. You may have to rotate it a bit to get it to come out of that hole. You're done. Go have kragen or some auto shop test it to make sure it's bad, and when you buy a new one, make them test that one too. It will save you so much time trying to figure out why your car is still not working right. Reverse the procedure to put the new one back in.

ac supply converted with dc supply

A voltage regulator is just as it says. It regulates the voltage that the alternator in your vehicle puts out. Too much voltage and you'll overamp your wiring, and too little can cause parts not to function properly.

well for starters the wheel chair was neccesary for the parapalegic or those dead from the waist down and an alternative for that are crutches. as for the stairs people would use the elevator or if their crippled just use the elevator. orjust say heck no tothe world and just crawl up the stairs

In general, to replace an engine component when another is in the way, you have to remove or move the obstructing component. However, you do not want to disconnect the ac compressor. Unbolt it and move it a little bit. Depending on the vehicle, you should then be able to remove and replace the alternator. If the lines are not flexible, then you may need to disconnect it - in that case you need to evacuate the refrigerant, reseal and purge, and replace the refrigerant - and you need a properly trained and certified mechanic to do that.

Yes they would be interchangeable. The body styles of cars go for ten year interval's so long as the engines are the same size it will work.

Under the hood, right next to the battery, there is a fusebox. There is a 15A fuse in this fuse box labeled audio.

This is the fuse that interrupts the default power signal for the stock radio.

Most aftermarket radios rely on an adapter harness that changes the stock wiring to the standard wiring making it easier to connect the replacement radio, so I would say that in about 95% of instances this is the fuse that you would check first. It is my experience that even if your aftermarket radio has a fuse directly on the rear of the headunit, you most likely blow the primary fuse first.

on the car its fairly simple disconnect battery. use 3\8 drive ratchet put in the auto tensioner arm for serpentine belt and lift up remove belt. remove bolts going to wish bone mounts at front of engine. tilt engine forward. disconnect wire harness to alternator{should be 10mm} remove bolt from bracket at bottom of alternator. tilt alternator up and remove bolt from bottom back. hope this helped.

Its real easy. 1st Get a breaker bar (an extremely long ratchet like a torque wrench). Locate the idler pulley and the size the bolt for a socket that holds the idler pulley on the idler arm (Hint: The idler pulley is just a pulley connected to a springloaded assembly attached to your enginge block putting pressure on the serpentine belt so it is tight around all the component pulleys (alternator, power steering, crankshaft, etc. pulleys).Using the correct size socket attached to the breaker bar for leverage put the socket onto the bolt head and pull or push the bolt head of the idler puller either forward or backward (which ever way causes the tension arm to move thus moving the idler pulley so that pressure is removed from the serpentine belt). Now remove the serpentine belt. A serpentine belt diagram should be located somewhere on a decal near the radiator or some other location under the hood...if not, before you remove the serpentine belt, map out the serpentines route with pen and paper so you can put the new one on the same exact way. When putting on the new belt you will again have to position the idler pulley usig the breaker bar and socket such that you can stretch the new belt over all the component pulleys...please note...you will only have one free hand when your doing this, so make it count and be patient...you will succeed. Good luck ...maxvolt1@verizon.net

TAkeit to the Auto Zone store and they will check it free.

This is for the v-8. The v-6 is simular, but w/o the mounting bracket. 1.disconnect the battery. 2.Take tension off the drive belt and take it off from the generator. 3.remove the upper bolts from the generator bracket and remove it. (when you replace tighten to 89lb.in) 4.remove the positive cable nut and and cable. 5.remove the the lower generator bolts. (when you replace these bolts tighten to 18lb.ft) Reinstall the reverse way. I hope this helps you

Not easy you have to remove radiator and loosen steering pump to get access to it there are 3 bolts holding it on , slacken drive belt first and remember to disconnect the battery lead before you start good luck

The alternator should only have to be replaced if it has either failed to provide sufficient current to keep the battery charged and the car's electrical system supplied, or it has suffered mechanical damage like a worn bearing or damaged casing. Replacement for age alone is not necessary.

The fuse between the battery and alternator is a fusible link in the small wire that hooks up to the battery terminal along with the regular battery cable. It looks like a thick spot in the wiring. To replace, the cable must be replaced. .

To remove ours we had to go underneath and take it out that way. Once we got all the bolts out we had to take off the brackets to get it to drop out. Installation is the reverse of removal. Quite a PITA!!!